Silk Butterfly Jacket
Butterfly pin, adornment on jacket, closures for rag woven jackets, jewelry.
|First I cut the silk scraps into 1 inch strips (sample S4). I tried cutting the fabric on the bias, circular and on the straight and cross grains. I put all the strips into a large mixed pile and pulled from it randomly. I attempted to spin the scraps on various wheels but found that the bulky spinner, bobbin driven, ratio 3:1 worked the best. The other wheels would twist the yarn but not draw in. I adjusted the bulky spinner to a very strong draw in. The first scrap was tied to the leader on the wheel and twisted in a Z direction. When I came to the end of the scrap I overlapped the silk one inch--not enough. One and one half to two inches was enough to hold the yarn together very well. I also tried slashing the ends and threading an eye like a knitter will do with rags. Unfortunately this produced too large a slub at the joins (sample S1).|
Because of my
study on knotting, I knew a soft spin would not be suitable. I put as much twist on the
scraps as they could handle. As sample S6 shows, a
single is not appropriate for knotting and is not stable. I decided to make balanced two
ply. This gave a nice weight cord, was round and balanced. These were the criteria I
discovered during the learning of the basic knots.
| I successfully tied a butterfly pan chang knot (sample S8) and was very pleased to I continued with
the project. I formulated a design for a jacket--maybe a bomber jacket, maybe a
sweatshirt. I finally decided on velveteen jacked lined in painted silk. Silk butterflies
needed something elegant, yet the whole effect was to be whimsical.
After the cord was spun, butterfly pan chang knots were tied. Each was given its own personality by how tight the knot was pulled. From some of the heavier cord spun mainly from the jacquard I knotted special butterfly closures. These were adapted from the pan chang butterfly knots and standard frog closures with button knots.
When the samples
were knotted they were more bulky than I wanted. The button knots did not look very good
in this cord (sample S10). I started again with 6
mm habotai cut into 3/4 inch strips and 8 mm habotai cut in 1/2 strips. All were cut on
the cross grain of the fabric. The two weights of fabric went perfectly together when cut
at that width. This cord I did not spin with as tight a twist as the larger cord because I
wanted to be able to get a needle into it. The butterfly knots tied much nicer, had more
definition and looked more like dainty butterflies (sample
S11). The button knots (sample S11) still looked too flimsy. I decided not to use the
button knot but use the butterflies as loops for standard buttons.
The fiber of choice was 6 mm habotai cut into 3/4 inch strips
and 8 mm habotai cut into 1/2 inch strips. The silk was all cut on the cross grain
of the fabric.