Please note:
You will find much of the text in this section identical or redundent to the
information on the first Polwarth Sweater page. The way the requirements were
outlined required discriptions in three different folders. I have edited it down
ever so slightly. |
A soft polwarth fleece was chosen for its
strength, luster, softness and dyeing qualities. First I washed the white fleece and
separated it into three equal amounts. One portion was left natural and allowed to dry in
a sunny window on a towel. Another portion was dyed with Textile Resources Acid dyes in
magenta shades and the last portion in lavender shades.
To make the knotting cord, half of each color was carded twice
through on the drum carder. The batts pulled into a worsted roving then were spun Z twist
on a double drive flyer wheel, ratio 19:1. Extra twist was added. The singles were then
Navajo three plied on a double drive flyer wheel, ratio 12:1. The finished yarn was steam
set in a commercial steamer for 8 hours.
The fiber that was set aside for weaving was carded on the drum
carder three times, two handfuls of white to one each of magenta and lavender. The final
batts were very well blended but not to the point of being heathered or tweedy. |
To spin the warp threads, I
pulled the batts into a worsted roving. These I spun on a double drive flyer wheel, ratio
19:1. They were plied on the same wheel and given a balanced twist. The diameter of the
single was about the size of the fiber crimp.
The batts that were used for weft were tightly rolled into
enormous rolags and then pulled into woolen roving. The weft threads were spun softly in
an English Long Draw. I spun the woolen on a portable flyer wheel, scotch brake with a
ratio of 6:1. |
|
I decided to weave tabby. The warp is commercial silk and two
ply worsted handspun. I planned the fabric to be mottled, with no pattern it would be the
perfect type sweater to adorn with Chinese knotting.The loom was warped at 12 threads per
inch four silk to one handspun wool. It was woven approximately the same with the soft
woolen singles.
My loom is only 22 inches wide so I warped 3 1/2 yards, double
the length needed for the sweater. |
Sample P6
|
I
washed the fabric in Ivory liquid, drained the excess moisture out and hung to dry, then
fluffed in the dryer. For an excellent fabric finish, I blocked it, rolled it on a tube
and steam set it in the commercial steamer for six hours.
I used Virginia West's square sweater pattern from "Designer
Diagonals". This sweater pattern can be finished in many different ways. From the
remaining blended batts, I core spun over elastic to make a elastic yarn the same diameter
as the weft yarn. Using a 2 by 2 rib, I knitted cuffs, waistband and
neck rib. |
Using both colors of wool together I
chose to make simple rows of double coin knots and followed the angles of
the sweater with stripes. After the knots were sewn to the
sweater, it was lined with a preshrunk lightweight silk (6 mm habotai). The lining was
sewn in loosely by hand. Washing care for the sweater is: hand wash in Ivory liquid, drip
dry, press with warm iron. Store in a safe place away from moths and carpet beetles. |
Phoenix tail knot
|
|
Sample P7
|
Detail of Elastic Cuff 
Double Coin Knot Necklass
 |
Detail of Double Coin Knot Necklass
|
|